Is Sensitive Skin a Type or a State?
The clinical evidence suggests that most "sensitive skin" is actually a compromised barrier state rather than a fixed genetic type. When the stratum corneum's lipid matrix is depleted — through over-exfoliation, harsh cleansers, environmental stress, or disease — sensory nerve endings become more accessible to irritants. The result is stinging, burning, redness, and reactivity to products that should be benign.
Genuinely genetically sensitive skin (associated with atopy, rosacea, or specific HPA mutations) exists but is less common than the "sensitive skin" label suggests in the skincare market.
Common Triggers to Identify and Remove
- Fragrance: The most common sensitising agent in cosmetics — both synthetic and natural
- Essential oils: Highly reactive — lavender, citrus, and mint are particularly common sensitisers
- High-concentration actives introduced too quickly: Retinoids, AHAs, and Vitamin C all require gradual introduction
- Alkaline cleansers: Disrupts acid mantle → increases nerve fibre accessibility
- Denatured alcohol (alcohol denat.): Solvent that strips lipids and denatures barrier proteins
The Barrier-First Protocol
Before introducing any active, repair the barrier. This typically takes 4–8 weeks:
- Step down to a single gentle, fragrance-free cleanser (pH 5–6)
- Apply a ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acid moisturiser twice daily
- Use only SPF and moisturiser — no actives — until reactivity reduces
- Reintroduce one new product every 2–4 weeks, patch-testing first
Ingredients to Seek (and Avoid)
| Seek | Avoid |
|---|---|
| Ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids | Fragrance (natural and synthetic) |
| Centella Asiatica (CICA) | Essential oils |
| Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) | Denatured alcohol |
| Colloidal oatmeal | High-dose AHAs without gradual intro |
| Allantoin | Sulphates (sodium lauryl sulphate) |
For conditions associated with sensitivity, see Rosacea and Eczema.